Prescription skincare, explained properly
There are three tiers of skincare. Most clients have only ever used one. This page is a doctor-led explainer of what prescription skincare actually is, when it earns its place in a routine, and why a consultation has to come first.
The three tiers of skincare
Skincare is regulated and formulated in three distinct tiers. Each has a place. Each has a ceiling. Knowing which tier you've actually been using is usually the first step toward better skin.
Cosmetic-grade
What's sold in Boots, Sephora and most online beauty retailers. Concentration of active ingredients is capped by UK and EU cosmetic regulation. No medical oversight required, no consultation involved.
- Self-selected by the client
- Designed to be safe at scale, not maximally effective
- Marketing-led; "dermatologist-tested" is not a regulated term
Medical-grade
Cosmeceuticals — pharmaceutical-quality formulations sold via clinics. ZO Skin Health, Obagi Medical, SkinCeuticals Professional. Higher actives than cosmetic-grade, but still classified as cosmetic in regulatory terms. Consultation strongly recommended because they can be irritating without it.
- Higher concentrations, better delivery systems
- Sold via medical professionals, not over the counter
- Where the REGEN Elevate pillar lives
Prescription-only
Medicines that are licensed as prescription-only by the MHRA. Tretinoin, hydroquinone above 2%, prescription-strength clindamycin and dapsone for acne, isotretinoin for severe acne. Cannot be sold direct to consumers — by law, only via a registered prescriber after a clinical consultation.
- Most powerful skin-changing ingredients available
- Require contraindication screening before prescribing
- At REGEN, prescribed by Dr Chris and dispensed via a registered pharmacy
Two prescription actives we use most
When prescription skincare is appropriate, these are the two ingredients that make the biggest clinical difference for our clients. Both are consultation-only at REGEN — never on the shelf.
Tretinoin
All-trans retinoic acid — typically 0.025%, 0.05% or 0.1%
Tretinoin is the most thoroughly studied skin-rejuvenation molecule in dermatology. It accelerates cell turnover, builds collagen, smooths fine lines, refines texture and helps disperse pigmentation. It works — but it earns its results by being demanding, and getting the strength, vehicle and pacing right is what separates a transformed skin from an irritated one.
Hydroquinone (Obagi Nu-Derm)
4% hydroquinone, prescription-only in the UK
Hydroquinone at prescription strength remains the most effective treatment for stubborn melasma, post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation and sun damage that hasn't responded to over-the-counter brighteners. Used inside the Obagi Nu-Derm system, it's part of a structured cycle — typically 12–24 weeks — followed by a maintenance phase. Not something to use indefinitely; a clinician should decide when on, and when off.
Why a consultation has to come first
Prescription skincare cannot be self-selected. That isn't a marketing position — it's a regulatory requirement, and it's the right one.
Regulatory
These are licensed medicines. They can only be supplied legally via a registered prescriber who has reviewed your skin, history and medications — not added to a public shopping cart.
Clinical
Strength, vehicle and pacing all need to match your skin barrier, sensitivity, and the rest of your routine. The wrong choice burns the skin and stops the result. The right choice transforms it.
Safety
Pregnancy, breastfeeding, photo-sensitisation, layered actives, recent procedures and certain skin conditions all change what's appropriate. Screening for these is the prescriber's job — and it's what makes prescription skincare safe to use.
Start with a Reveal Consultation
A 60-minute doctor-led skin consultation with Dr Chris. We assess your skin, take a full history, and decide together whether a prescription approach is appropriate. If it is, the prescription is issued the same day and dispensed by a registered pharmacy partner.
Frequently asked
Can I just buy Tretinoin or Obagi hydroquinone from the website?
No — and not because of any clinic policy. Both are licensed prescription-only medicines in the UK. They cannot legally be sold on a public e-commerce checkout. They can only be issued after a clinical consultation by a registered prescriber who has reviewed your skin and history.
How do I actually get prescribed at REGEN?
You book a Reveal Consultation — a 60-minute appointment with Dr Chris, in clinic. He assesses your skin, takes a medical history, and decides together with you whether prescription skincare is appropriate. If it is, the prescription is issued the same day and dispensed by a registered pharmacy partner — separately from the Shopify store.
What's the difference between ZO/Obagi medical-grade and prescription-only?
ZO Skin Health and Obagi Medical's standard ranges are medical-grade cosmetics — pharmaceutical-quality, sold via clinics, but classified as cosmetic rather than medicinal. The Obagi Nu-Derm system specifically contains 4% hydroquinone, which is prescription-only in the UK and cannot be supplied without a private prescription. The same brand can sit in two different regulatory tiers depending on the formulation.
Is it safe? What about side effects?
Prescription skincare is safe and effective when prescribed appropriately. Side effects can include dryness, redness and short-term sensitivity — usually expected and managed with the right pacing and supporting routine. Consultation includes screening for pregnancy, breastfeeding, certain skin conditions, photo-sensitivity and active medications, all of which can change what's prescribed.
How long do you stay on prescription products?
It depends on the active and the indication. Tretinoin is often used long-term as a maintenance ingredient. Hydroquinone is cycled — typically 12 to 24 weeks on, then a defined break with maintenance brighteners. Dr Chris reviews progress at follow-up appointments and decides when to step up, step down or rotate.
Ready for skincare that actually changes your skin?
Book the Reveal Consultation. Sixty minutes with Dr Chris, a clear plan, and — where appropriate — a prescription that earns its place in your routine.